Last Stop: Barcelona

So the last stop on my 4 week tour was Barcelona.

A beautiful, cosmopolitan, Spanish city!

Luckily, I got a gig, and found a couch to surf!

While I was in Ireland, I asked my hosts, the Henry Girls if they knew anyone in Barcelona. They put me in touch with Anna Morely – a very talented Australian vibraphone player who has been living in Barcelona for quite some time. Anna set up a show at club called “Bar Fantastico.” They host intimate shows in the lounge, and Dominick, the owner, really believes in supporting touring independent musicians. Anna also plays with an Irish ukulele player named Ciara – so we had a nice female musician connection and learned a couple songs to play together. I will be posting a youtube video of our collaboration. Our gig was well attended and the crowd was kept very quiet while we were playing.

Anna and Ciara

Bar Fantastico

I spent many days in Barcelona soaking in the architecture. I went to see the two “must see” Gaudi monuments – La Sagrada Familia, and Park Guell – they were both much more deep and rich and complex than I could begin to absorb. I also enjoyed the charming Gothic quarter. And I saw some of the more recently developed cosmopolitan areas, too. The architect in me had always wanted to visit Barcelona, so it was wonderful to finally have that dream come true. Though, there was too much to see, so I am going to have to return.

veiw of Barcelona from one of La Sagrada Familia's spires

Park Guell

Gaudi!

I have finally officially surfed my first couch through Couchsurfers. Al-berto was my host – he lives in a comfy flat with two cats, and it was so nice to be his guest for 3 days. Al was a great host; he made me dinner, and invited me to tag along with him and his friend Sylvia. We had a lot to talk about, and it was great seeing the city through a local’s eyes. Although Al is fluent in English, he and his friends often spoke Catalan while I was with them – I realized how different it is than Spanish!

My last three nights were spent at the Kabul Hostel. It made me very glad that I found homey, free places to stay with friends almost my entire trip! I am much more interested in playing music, and connecting with other musicians and locals than being a tourist.

One thing I found really lovely in Barcelona was the community bicycle program! My Couchsurfing host, Al, let me use his pass and explained how it works. People in the city pay an annual subscription fee (I think it’s only 30 Euro a year,) and then they check out a bike at an automated kiosk at one of the many “Bicing” stations around the city. Users get to ride one bike for free for 30 minutes at a time. Then the bike should be checked into another Bicing station or an extended ride fee is charged to the user. It was so fun to ride around the city, and get to use one of their cute bikes!

Barcelona's Progressive "Bicing" program!

I have been thinking a lot about how this is just the beginning of creating my European fan base – I will need to return to make this trip worth all the effort. If I don’t go back and continue to play in the communities that I connected with, I will never reap the benefit of all the seeds I have sewn. So I’m already starting to think about next year.

and so the adventure continues....

Too much to see in Rome

Well they say ‘Rome wasn’t built in a day’, and there is no way one can see Rome in a week.

I ended up in Rome sort of by accident. I have always wanted to see this ancient city, but the primary goal of this 4 week trip has been to play music, and be on tour.

Unfortunately Rome does not seem to have a very thriving local, independent music scene – there are too many tourists, and too many ancient monuments. But I was given an offer to stay for free at a nice quiet apartment just outside of Rome, a short Metro ride into the city center. And the flights to and from Rome are much more affordable than those to and from Florence and other Italian destinations. My host has been Daniele Mutino, who played accordion for the How to Survive the Apocalypse musical that my friend Mark Nichols helped write and produce in San Francisco last fall. Daniele has been away for work almost this entire week, so I’ve had the place to myself.

Luckily the apartment is close to a Metro station, and luckily I have had an internet connection. Both have allowed me to take advantage of my situation. I have decided to be a tourist this week – and I used Couchsurfing to make some new friends!

Piazza Navona in the Rain

The Colosseum

My first full day in Rome was spent walking around aimlessly taking in the sites – It was unseasonably wet – the rainclouds and umbrella covered tourists gave everything and unusual mood. But it was refreshing – and I later realized much less crowded because of the rain. As my week carried on – more and more tourists seemed to be swarming the hot, dirty streets, and I often preferred sitting quietly in the cool apartment, or in a church. It has given me some time to reflect and start a couple of new songs.

Piazza del Popolo

Rome has probably 1,000 churches – almost all Catholic, and over decorated with fancy granite, marble, gold, paintings and relics. I wasn’t raised Catholic, and after seeing the ostentatious display of wealth in this cities’ churches, I am glad that I have never been a part of that religion. As amazing as St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City is, I don’t feel any emotional connection with Catholicism. Though it’s hard not to be impressed with the vast and ornate space; it did make me feel like a puny little ant in this world – along with all the other camera-clicking puny ants… but I think the Grand Canyon can do that, too.

Saint Peter's Basilica swarming with tourists

all those intersecting vaults....

Bronze statue of Hercules in the Vatican Museum

My two new Couchsurfing friends are Luca and Armando. Each has graciously spent time with me telling me their perspectives on this city. Luca is a freelance comedy writer for Italian television. And Armando is a musician and film editor. Both have confirmed to me that the local artists’ scene is small in Rome. But they’ve had good senses of humor about it.

I had thought of busking on the street, and making a little money – Daniele is the vice-president of the street performer’s alliance here in Rome and gave me some tips. But it seemed that most of the people I have seen performing are glorified beggers, and pop-sensation imitators – like the fake Michael Jackson in Piazza del Popolo. I didn’t feel like my music would be appreciated or understood, except for when I met Fergus, the songwriter from Scotland, who I watched and made friends with in Piazza Saint Maria Trastevere. I enjoyed his songwriting, and his one-man-band drum kit rig! But I still didn’t’ feel like pushing myself – it has been nice to have a week to relax a little. And take too many pictures.

Fergus the street performer

I did go see the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican Museum – and it was impressive, but I enjoyed looking at the Raphael paintings and the ancient Greek sculptures the most. The art and archeological pieces collected by the Vatican are an impressive collection!

And the archeological sites that crop out at every turn in this city! It’s hard not to stumble on history here. But it’s also interesting for this California Girl to imagine how hard it must be to build new buildings here. And to wonder how people can have a sense of the future in a city so obsessed with it’s past!

the Temple of Vesta right in the middle of the city.

I’m really looking forward to Barcelona. I’ve been hearing great things about it, and I have a gig booked for Sunday June 13^th at Bar Fantastico with Anna Morely. It sounds like there is a thriving music and artists’ scene there, and I’m looking forward to connecting with other musicians! And I’ve found a Couchsurfer to stay with for a few days!

Life in Germany

Traveling to Germany has been very interesting because I am so unfamiliar with the language; and I have been staying out in the country with my new friend Christian Lutz. I knew I could trust him because he’s an old friend of Uni and her Ukelele, and has traveled a lot in the United States. I have been very lucky to have him as my tour guide, host and translator.

Chris lives in his family’s old farmhouse in a small village (apx. 800 people) named Hergolshausen, which is in the Franconian part of Bavaria, near Schweinfurt, which is near Wurzburg. The compound consists of a semi-modernized house, a big barn, a storage garage, an unoccupied house, and a large courtyard. It is the oldest farm in the village, and right next to the church.

My first gig was at The Standard in Wurzburg on Thursday night. But before the gig, Chris took me to see the large fort/castle on the hilltop overlooking the city. What a view! The hip college aged crowd at The Standard generously tipped me, and I enjoyed meeting the owner, Hari, and a few other musicians that frequent the club.

Festung Mariehenberg in Wurzburg

Amber with Hari of The Standard

Friday was my designated day to go to Klingenthal on the Czech border and see the Weltmeister Factory. We got the factory just in time for a short tour; it was Friday and they closed at noon. I found the room where they put together the bass mechanism the most interesting. Looking at the racks of pins and levers and buttons – trying to figure out how they all go together… it was a mesmerizing puzzle. Then Chris and I took a little trip over to the next town where there was a museum of musical instruments. There were instruments of all sorts – from violins, to tubas, to clarinets and accordions, guitars, pianos, autoharps and fun old music boxes with classic German marches and waltzes.

We were even able to put a coin in one and watch it work!

making bass mechanisms

Chris standing next to the largest accordion in the world!

My second gig was at Café Vondran on Saturday night in Schweinfurt, which is more of an industrial town and where Chris works at the SKF factory. The gracious and funny manager, Bernd, had lived in the San Francisco area for almost 20 years – so we had a lot to talk about! I also met a group of women who work at the Army base in Schweinfurt. I learned that there are 20,000 Americans living on the base in that area – so it was pretty easy to communicate – everyone understood English.

Sunday night Chris took me into Bamburg to crash a Jam Session at a club and play a few songs – it actually went really well… I was surprised! The players were all guys jamming out on classic-rock style music. I decided to be brazen and went up on stage between songs and took the mic. The drummer and bas player tried to follow along… Luckily I sold some CDs.

Monday was another tourist day for me. Bernd, the manager at Café Vondran, acted as my tour guide and took me to see Rothenberg ob der Tauber which is a medieval walled city with Tudor style buildings and a museum of torture devices that made my stomach queasy. But it was overall a very charming and wonderful city with lots of cutesy shops.

Bernd being my tour guide

Rothenberg

One of the biggest lessons I’ve been learning in Germany, is about language. Luckily Chris and his nieces have been humorously and patiently helping me learn words. I’ve also been eating some amazing food, and it’s a good thing that I am eating meat – there are lots of tasty sausages and cold-cuts with nuts, and eggs, and flavorful, decorative items to choose from. And the baked goods… yum! I definitely like Germany; it’s very clean, well organized, and sensible. The people I have encountered are very generous, have great senses of humor, and have pride in their culture.